HVAC Question?
have one six inch duct that runs to my family room. There is only on register in that room and I want to add another inline before the existing box. I'm adding a 6"x4" register box. What type of connector should I use to tap into the 6" duct? Does it matter if I use a saddle or a 'Y'?
... (Asked by Jim C) |
 |
| View Entire Question | Report Abuse | Similar Questions | See it in Y! |
| A. |
|
Most heating and air systems are based on static pressure not air velocity(although they are linked) so a Y or a T will create the same effect...however your only going to acheive about 120 cfm on a six inch run, regardless of 1 register or 2, so you will most likely want to make an entire new run....keep in mind that you will be affecting the entire design of the system and may be robbing airflow from another space....(Answered by proto_moose) |
|
|
| View Entire Answer | Report Abuse | See it in Y! |
How to hardwire more than one hardwire alarm contact???
I have an ademco alarm and are hooking up doors and windows on teh same zone. I need to know why it doesn't read when i open the door or window. They are closed Contacts, and when I open a door or window when they are all hooked up it doesn't register. But when they are alll hooked up nothing registers. Where do I put the resistors and such...
... (Asked by nick n) |
 |
| View Entire Question | Report Abuse | Similar Questions | See it in Y! |
| A. |
|
Does the system detect an alarm when both the door and window are open? If so you have the sensors wired in parallel instead of series.
Have a look at the Ademco and First Alert installation manuals on my web site. It should show you how to properly wire the sensors in series.
http://members.rennlist.org/warren/security.html...(Answered by warren914) |
|
|
| View Entire Answer | Report Abuse | See it in Y! |
Help Re-running HVAC Ducting?
I have a 1200cfm system, that was poorly ran through the attic. After adding two upstairs room, I need to reroute. I've been thinking about running a single duct through the middle of the house and feeding upstairs and down stairs off the same main trunk. I read somewhere the registers should be near the outside walls, but with this configuration the would actually be closer to the inside walls. Does that really matter? Can I run it all with flex, or do I need rigid? How can I do rigid myself? I know ... (Asked by crimsoninja) |
 |
| View Entire Question | Report Abuse | Similar Questions | See it in Y! |
| A. |
|
lets start with the 12" round supplies leaving the unit.....the smallest i have ever seen in my 28 yrs of building is a 18" supply and a 16" main return.....dont install a register direct off of the main, u will loose ur pressure.....u can stay with the main feed as a round flex but it really needs to be around 18" min... then install dampers at every drop to control air flow at the registers...
lic. gen. contractor...(Answered by bigg_dogg44) |
|
|
| View Entire Answer | Report Abuse | See it in Y! |
Is metal ductwork required on supply?
Difficult transition at wall register would be easy to frame and build with wood. This would be over 20' from the furnace, which is not "really" a furnace but an air handler with a hot water coil in it. No flame associated with it, temps below 160F. Total lenghth of transition about 18". Antique register, odd size to it.
... (Asked by roadlessgraveled) |
 |
| View Entire Question | Report Abuse | Similar Questions | See it in Y! |
| A. |
|
If it is just a framed box you are wanting to build to adapt to the register, it should be fine. If you need to run 20' of this, run metal duct (round, buy at Home Depot, etc.) 6" for 100 CFM, 7" for up to 160 CFM, 8" for up to 200 CFM. Then you can make the box you are talking about.
Return ducts are commonly run as "chases" in houses, not using metal ducts, by using the framed openings behind existing walls or by using joist bays covered in flat metal turning it into a "duct".
It is preferable ...(Answered by Obsean) |
|
|
| View Entire Answer | Report Abuse | See it in Y! |
Any corgi registered people out there?
I have a problem with my cooker that i have had it installed by a corgi registered plumber and it is faulty that it gets really hot to touch the sides and it has ruined my cupboards. I have been in touch with belling who have told me that it is regulation to have a certain distance from your cooker to your cupboards or have panels fitted to the side. Is this true?
It is a free standing range cooker and it is tight to the low level cupboards. It gets so hot to touch that you cant even put your ... (Asked by clare s) |
 |
| View Entire Question | Report Abuse | Similar Questions | See it in Y! |
| A. |
|
True it is! Well, not quite, its true that you should fit extra panels each side of the cooker to reduce the heat affecting the cupboards in a way that has happened to you - its a recomendation rather than a regulation though...(Answered by max) |
|
|
| View Entire Answer | Report Abuse | See it in Y! |
| Note: We are not affiliated with Yahoo! Answers in any way. All the content is retrieved from Yahoo! Answers. We are not responsible for the content. For more information, please see the term of service. The above content was retrieved on September 23 2009 18:54:03.from Yahoo! Answers (Category Home > Home & Garden > Do It Yourself (DIY)). We are neither affiliated with the authors of this page nor responsible for its content. The data may have changed since that time. Click here to search real time questions/answers from Yahoo! Answers. |
|